Weapon Stats, Weapon Damage and Full Sniper Stats

Weapon stats

Weapon damage

Sniper Rifle Full Stats

English => Chinese Vocabulary

I just got bored of playing with Chinese players, that I do not understand and/or can not communicate with them. This is my partial solution of this... not problem.... of this inconvenience, before we get auto-translator in game, or I learn Chinese next to my english, german and japanese...

I hope you enjoy this vocabulary, and if you want to add something, just write me and I will add it. (feel free to copy it and print, I tested it and it helps)

Vocabulary

Basics:
Hello: Nihao
Goodbye: Za:ijia:n
Help me!: Bang Wo:!
Cover me!: Yianwho: wo:!
Behind us: Beinhao
enemy: T-ren (like T-rex, just with "N")
shoot!: Shetee
Stop!: Phingzhi:
Need (something): Tziyao
Enemy in the builiding: T-ren zai talou vi:
Sorry: baotzien
Thank you: tchie tchie (Tche Tche)
My Chinese is bad: Wo de tchunwen bu chao

Terrain:
Hill: Pa: Po: dao
Forest: Se:nli:n
Field: Lingyu (“gyu” part like “Gyou”)
Water: Shuei
Building: Jinzao
2nd floor “ar Lau” (just number + Lau = floor)
church: Jiahoey
rock: "Shi" (like She, just short... Shi x She:)

vehicles:
Car: tzitzche: (Che: = something on wheels)
Bike: Motou Che:
Ship: Chua:n (not like Chuan in Mexican) (the Ch = like Ch in word “check”

items:
Backpack: Beibao
Vest: Beixi:n
Helmet: Toukuei:
Level 1;2;3 Shuiping “i:” “ar” “sen”
meds: Pi:tien
boosters: Cutzien (used word "boost")

directions:
North: Bei (similar to word “Bay”)
South: Nan (like Non, just A instead of O)
East: Do:nk
West: tzi:
Left: Zuo
Right: yo / chien (Ch like in "Check")

weapons:
Assault rifle: puczi putzjang
SMG: Chong fong tziang
SG: Hua:tan tziang
SR: Juji tziang
Ammo: Daenjao
5.56 ammo: "wu wu liu" (thank: SainTheVex)
7.62 ammo: "qi liu ar" (thank: SainTheVex)

numbers:
1: "i"
2: "ar"
3: "sen"
4: "s:u" (sound like snake.. "ssu")
5: "wu:"
6: "Lio:"
7: "tzi" (yep, like the "west" probably difference in tone...)
8: "pa:"
9: "tzio" (like Ezio from AC just without "E" sound)
0: "lin" (like word "Lean" just shorter)

If you do not like it, do it yourself, this is to help you play and communicate with Chinese players.

PUBG Weapon Damage Stats

Weapon damage stats and charts

A few things to bear in mind:

• First, these stats are sourced from datamines of the main game - sources include datamined stats, as well as data from PUBG redditor. Updated 01. July 2018.
  
• The tables below are ordered by Shots to Kill, with the fewest shots to kill ranked highest. That doesn't mean that's always the best way to evaluate the weapons though. For a sniper rifle it's essential, as you're trying to kill players with as few shots as possible. For others like ARs and SMGs, the Time to Kill is much more important, with the lower the time the better.
  
• Time to Kill is when the weapon is firing at the chest of an opponent who is wearing Level 2 Chest Armour, which is the most likely standard for when you're playing decent-level games from the mid-game onwards. Likewise Shots to Kill for Chest and Head are both for Level 2 Chest Armour and Level 2 Helmets.
  
• Times are in seconds.
  
• Weapons marked with an asterisk * are only available in air drop crates, so don't plan to play around these being available in every game!

Sniper Rifle damage stats

Weapon

Base Damage

Fire Rate

DPS

Time to Kill

Shots to Kill (Chest)

Shots to Kill (Head)

AWM*

120

1.85

65

1.85

2

1

M24

79

1.80

44

1.80

2

1

Kar98k

75

1.90

39

3.80

2

1

Win94

66

0.60

110

1.20

3

2

MK14*

61

0.09

678

0.18

4

2

SLR

58

0.10

580

0.20

3

2

SKS

53

0.133

428

0.27

3

2

Mini 14

46

0.133

338

0,40

4

2

VSS

40

0.086

467

0.34

4

2

* Weapon only available in air drop crates

Shots to Kill for Chest and Head are both for Level 2 Chest Armour and Level 2 Helmets.

Assault Rifles and LMG damage stats

Weapon

Base Damage

Fire Rate

DPS

Time to Kill

Shots to Kill (Chest)

Shots to Kill (Head)

Groza*

49

0.08

613

0.24

4

2

AKM

49

0.10

490

0.30

4

2

DP-28

51

0.109

450

0.33

3

2

AUG A3*

43

0.086

502

0.26

4

2

M16A4

43

0.075

573

0.22

4

2

M416

43

0.086

502

0.26

4

2

Scar-L

43

0.096

448

0.29

4

2

QBZ**

43

0.092

466

0.28

4

2

M249*

45

0.075

600

0.23

4

2

* Weapon only available in air drop crates

** Sanhok only

Shots to Kill for Chest and Head are both for Level 2 Chest Armour and Level 2 Helmets.

SMG damage stats

Weapon

Base Damage

Fire Rate

DPS

Time to Kill

Shots to Kill (Chest)

Shots to Kill (Head)

Tommy Gun

40

0.086

467

0.34

4

3

UMP9

39

0.092

412

0.37

4

3

Vector

34

0.055

606

0.27

5

3

UZI

25

0.048

521

0.29

6

4

Shots to Kill for Chest and Head are both for Level 2 Chest Armour and Level 2 Helmets.

Shotgun damage stats

Weapon

Base Damage

Fire Rate

DPS

Time to Kill

Shots to Kill (Chest)

Shots to Kill (Head)

S686

216

0.20

1125

0

1

1

S1897

216

0.75

300

0

1

1

S12k

198

0.25

792

0

1

1

Shots to Kill for Chest and Head are both for Level 2 Chest Armour and Level 2 Helmets.

Pistols and Sidearm damage stats

Weapon

Base Damage

Fire Rate

DPS

Time to Kill

Shots to Kill (Chest)

Shots to Kill (Head)

Sawed-Off

160

0.25

640

0.25

2

1

R1895

50

0.40

125

1.20

3

2

R45

50

0.25

200

0.75

3

2

P1911

36

0.11

327

0.44

4

3

P92

30

0.135

222

0.68

5

3

P18C

21

0.06

350

0.42

7

4

Shots to Kill for Chest and Head are both for Level 2 Chest Armour and Level 2 Helmets.

Melee and Other weapon damage stats

Weapon

Base Damage

Fire Rate

DPS

Time to Kill

Shots to Kill (Chest)

Shots to Kill (Head)

Crossbow

105

3.80

28

3.80

2

1

Pan

80

0.75

107

1.50

2

2

Machete

60

0.75

80

1.50

3

2

Crowbar

60

0.75

80

1.50

3

2

Sickle

60

0.75

80

1.50

3

2

Jumping Punch

38

0.33

115

1.32

4

3

Punch

18

0.33

55

2.97

9

7

Shots to Kill for Chest and Head are both for Level 2 Chest Armour and Level 2 Helmets

PUBG Weapons/Attachments Guide (OUTDATED)

Chart

Short range weapons

S12K

The S12K is a semi-automatic gauge shotgun, and is my close-range gun of choice. Each clip has 5 rounds, which goes up to 8 with an extended mag. It has slots for AR barrel, magazine, and sight attachments – equipping a red-dot will mean less of your screen gets obscured by the gun itself. The large magazine and high-firing rate means there’s less pressure to land every shot, and also makes it more suited to taking out groups when compared to the other shotguns.
Ammo: 12 Gauge
Ammo Capacity: 5 stock, 8 extended
Attachment Slots: 3
]

S686

If you’re playing solo, a viable alternative to the S12k is the double barrel S686 gauge shotgun. Although it can only fire 2 shells before it needs to be reloaded, those shells do more damage – at point blank range it can one shot someone even if they’re wearing the highest tier armour. You can also double tap to fire both shells in very quick succession. In my experience however, enemies go down quickly enough when you’re close up, that the S12K or the Vector can still get the job done and have rounds left over.
Ammo: 12 Gauge
Ammo Capacity: 2
Attachment Slots: 2


S1897

The S1897 is a pump action shotgun with 5 shells in each clip, which makes it a better option than the S686 in duo or squad games – though the time between each shot is still much higher than the S12K. If you do end up using the S1897 or the S686, do your best to find a choke attachment as it will dramatically increase its range. Both guns also have a slot for bullet loops, which decrease their reload times by 30%.
Ammo: 12 Gauge
Ammo Capacity: 5
Attachment Slots: 2


Vector

The Vector SMG takes .45 ACP rounds, has a 13 bullet sized clip by default and can fire in single, burst or full-auto. It’s got a full suite of 5 attachment options, and becomes a much more attractive option with an extended mag that takes the clip size up to 25. It really struggles at longer distances though, and can’t match the damage potential of an S12K at close range.
Ammo: .45 ACP
Ammo Capacity: 13 stock, 25 extended
Attachment Slots: 4


Micro Uzi

The Uzi uses 9mm ammo, and has space for a barrel, magazine and stock attachment. It can do a lot of damage up close, but has the worst range of any weapon in the game – I’d much rather have a shotgun or a different SMG.
Ammo: 9mm
Ammo Capacity: 25 stock, 35 extended
Attachment Slots: 3


UMP9

Many people prefer to pack the UMP submachine gun as their short-range option, and not without good reason. It’s more versatile than the other guns here, with a single shot and burst fire mode that make it viable at longer ranges, in addition to a full-auto mode for close engagements. It takes 9mm ammo, which should be in plentiful supply. I’m usually more inclined to take the S12K when I have the choice, seen as I like to camp inside buildings and it’s a better tool for ambushes. If I’m using a sniper rifle rather than an assault rifle, I’ll take the UMP so that I can better handle mid-range engagements.
Ammo: 9mm
Ammo Capacity: 30 stock, 45 extended
Attachment Slots: 4


Tommy Gun

The Tommy Gun is an SMG that fires .45 ACP rounds, and its fast firing rate gives it better damage than the UMP at close range. It can take a barrel, magazine and grip attachment, though the lack of a sight attachment and poor damage at anything other than close range prevent it from being an ideal choice.
Ammo: .45 ACP
Ammo Capacity: 100
Attachment Slots: 1

Medium-long range weapons

M416

The M416 takes 5.56mm ammo, and is the only assault rifle with 5 attachment slots. This gives it the best overall stats once it’s fully kitted out, though don’t expect that to happen in every game. If you already have those attachments, picking this up is a no-brainer – the only instance where I wouldn’t swap to it is if a match is nearly over and I don’t think I’m going to find any more.
Ammo: 5.56mm
Ammo Capacity: 30 stock, 40 extended
Attachment Slots: 5


AKM

The AKM uses 7.62 mm ammo, and does the most damage per hit of all the assualt rifles: 2 headshots should be enough to take out anyone who isn’t wearing a level 3 helmet. However, it has more recoil and bullet drop, and can only take a barrel, magazine and sight attachment. The high damage potentially makes it the best assault rifle for taking single shots at a long range, but only if you’re good enough to land them.
Ammo: 7.62mm
Ammo Capacity: 30 stock, 40 extended
Attachment Slots: 3


M16A4

The M16A4 does slightly less damage than the AKM as it uses 5.56mm ammo, but has a higher bullet speed that makes taking long range shots easier. It’s got space for a scope, barrel and magazine attachment, and has a burst-fire mode rather than full-auto. Spamming burst-fire actually does more damage at close range than the full-auto of other assault rifles, which also makes this the best choice in this category for short-range engagements.
Ammo: 5.56mm
Ammo Capacity: 30 stock, 40 extended
Attachment Slots: 3


M249

The M249 is an airdrop only light machine gun capable of destroying a squad filled vehicle in the blink of an eye. The only thing this gun can cut through faster than a car is your ammo supply which makes
the M249 a niche weapon better suited for having fun than winning a round.
Ammo: 5.56mm
Ammo Capacity: 100
Attachment Slots: 1


SCAR

The SCAR shoots 5.56mm bullets, takes every attachment other than a stock, but has the worst stats of any assault rifle. It’s one saving grace is that the recoil is a little easier to control than with other weapons, but you should still only use it if you can’t find anything better.
Ammo: 5.56mm
Ammo Capacity: 30 stock, 40 extended
Attachment Slots: 4


Crossbow

The Crossbow has good damage and is naturally stealthy, but the downsides far outweigh the positives. It’s got a long reload time between each shot (although that was recently increased by 35%) and there’s a large amount of drop on each bolt, making it too unwieldy to be used effectively.
Ammo: Bolt
Ammo Capacity: 1
Attachment Slots: 3


Sniper rifles

This might sound a little counter-intuitive, but a sniper rifle won’t always be your best bet for long range headshots. The VSS is better suited to close range engagements, and any assault rifle with an 8X scope will be more than capable of taking enemies out at a distance – especially the M16.

VSS

The VSS is a sniper rifle, though the huge amount of bullet drop on each 9mm projectile makes it difficult to use at anything other than close range. The advantage it has over other weapons is that it comes with an inbuilt suppressor and a scope, which you can use to take shots at a longer range once you’ve learnt how. A VSS can be surprisingly useful in the late game, when the circle has shrunk down and not giving your position away is even more important than usual.
Ammo: 9mm
Ammo Capacity: 10 stock


Mini-14

The Mini-14 DMR is the latest gun to be added, and uses 5.56mm rounds. It fires in semi-auto with 20 rounds in each clip, and the minimal amount of bullet drop on each shot means that it can compete with the M16 and SKS at long distances. It’s got space for a muzzle, magazine and sight attachment. It does more damage than the M16, and is better at medium range than the SKS – making it my preferred choice over those two.
Ammo: 5.56mm
Ammo Capacity: 20 stock
Attachment Slots: 3


SKS

The SKS is a semi-auto carbine rifle that uses 7.62mm bullets, and has space for all 5 attachments. While each shot can do a considerable amount of damage, the gun is held back by high recoil and the low spawn rate of sniper rifle attachments.
Ammo: 7.62mm
Ammo Capacity: 10 stock, 20 extended
Attachment Slots: 3


Kar98K

The Kar98K is a bolt-action sniper rifle that fires 7.62mm rounds, and does the most damage of any non-crate weapon: it can kill anyone with a level 2 helmet in a single headshot. As you’d expect from a bolt-action rifle, however, it’s got an incredibly slow firing rate – making it the best non-crate weapon for long ranges, but difficult to use in any other situation.
Ammo: .762mm
Ammo Capacity: 5
Attachment Slots: 3


M24

The M24 is an airdrop only sniper rifle that is more versatile than the KAR98K. It has slightly less range and power than the AWM but uses the more common 7.62mm ammo type making it the most reliable sniper rifle in the game.
Ammo: .762mm
Ammo Capacity: 5 stock, 7 extended
Attachment Slots: 4


AWM

This airdrop only sniper rifle boasts the maximum range and power for any weapon in the game as well as being highly customizable. The scarce .300 magnum ammo type is the one downfall to this sniper rifle butthe name alone will have your opponent’s hiding behind any cover they can find.
Ammo: .300 Magnum
Ammo Capacity: 5 stock, 7 extended
Attachment Slots: 4


AUG

While the AUG A3 is a great weapon, and it is a bit better than the M416, it still loses to such rifles as the Groza and AKM in terms of power and damage. So, it's definitely a worthy choice, but it most definitely does not deserve to be a crate-only weapon.
Ammo Type: 5.56
Magazine Size: 30
Extended Magazine Size: 40
Capacity: 500

Groza

Pistol

Pistols become pretty much irrelevant once you’re past the opening few minutes of a game, with one or two exceptions. The first of those is the P18C, which has an automatic firing mode that means its damage can begin to compete with that of a bigger gun – though there aren’t many situations where it wouldn’t be better to just, you know, use a bigger gun.

One situation where a pistol can be useful is if you’ve found a pistol suppressor and have the drop on someone. If you’re confident you can take them out with it, then doing so will make it much less likely that you’ll get killed while looting their body.

Attachment advice

Before I go, I’ll give you a quick rundown on which attachments to equip. For the barrel modification, suppressors are nearly always the best option. They don’t completely eliminate noise, but they do make it much harder for anyone you shoot at to work out where you are. If you can’t find one, it comes down to personal preference between a flash hider and a compensator, but bear in mind that the flash hider actually reduces some recoil as well as hiding your muzzle flash. Also remember that there’s no point in equipping a compensator on a bolt-action rifle.

The angled grip slightly reduces both horizontal and vertical recoil, while the vertical grip reduces vertical recoil significantly. Again it comes down to personal preference, though I prefer the angled grip as shots that go wide due to horizontal recoil are more likely to miss the target entirely.

For the magazine attachment, the extended mag wins out over the quickdraw mag: it puts those extra bullets directly into your clip, making it more likely that you’ll actually get a chance to use them. The extended quickdraw mag is outright better though, as it combines the effects of those two attachments.

In regards to scopes, an 8x on any assault rifle can effectively turn it into a sniper rifle. If you’re playing in third person, don’t worry about being caught out if someone appears at close-range – just right click to aim your weapon without looking through the scope. Another underused trick is to quickly swap out your optics to best suit the current situation.

How to Dacia

Introduction

This guide will cover the secret art of driving a Dacia throughout the whole game, just follow the instructions and you'll be the last man standing 0,001% of the time.

How do I Dacia?

In order to properly Dacia you need to know several things.

Before even starting the game you need to create a playlist consisting only of music from Initial D. Put it on and start the game.

The first thing you need to know is where to land. This picture shows the best location to land, owing to its high concentration of roads but relatively low concentration of other players.You should aim for a small cluster of houses when landing and quickly get to looting. Prioritize on getting meds and gasoline, since you'll need it later. For weapons just pick up whatever, your main weapon will be the front of the Dacia.

Having looted a few houses it's time to hit the road. Follow the road until you find a vehicle, and if it's not a Dacia continue following the road until you find one. Once you've found your Dacia you have several options:
The first is the basic Dacia, just drive along the roads and perfom the sickest drifts possible at each curve. Don't forget to keep an eye on your fuel gauge, stop by some houses if you're in need of more fuel.
The second option is the advanced Dacia, here your goal is to get to the red zone and drive around in it. If you get blown to smithereens so be it.
The third option is the Snicks McSnooks, wait for a drop, follow it and place yourself in an ambush position where you can easily run over people coming to loot it. Once they show up, showtime!
The fourth option is just to drive around as you see fit, without any real goal.

You can of course perfom several of these each game, you could for example start with the first option but change to the third once you hear the airplane.

Concerning players, if you see one in the open, run him down, if you see one in a vehicle, prepare for collision, if you see one in a house, keep driving.

Last of all, if you make it to the end of the game, get into the small zone, throw a grenade under the Dacia in order to flip it and then get into the back seat and pray that no one finds you.

Having read all of this you're now ready to hit the road and become part of the supreme Dacia master race.

Enemy Callout Guide

You find an enemy

1. Get the bearing or direction (that is the compass direction up top your HUD).
2. Estimate the distance; even the wildest numerical distance or range is better than saying "over there" or "right in front of me"
3. Describe the location and the enemy. This is really important. The more concrete details the better.

Descriptions can be but is not limited to:

• the landmark: bush, tree, rock, house, wrecked car, building, distance/count from something, which window, which side, which floor, what surface, etc
• the enemy: how many, what is he doing, where is he facing, what is he wearing, what weapons he has, is he an immediate threat, have they seen you, have you damaged them, etc

.


Close range gun fights (<50m or house to house) don't really need accurate bearing, but the cardinal direction (N, NE, E, etc) helps (like if you're pinned down or an incoming vehicle).


.


Finding enemies does not exactly mean visually spotting them, even hearing them identifies their presence.

Special Situations

• For long to medium ranged engagements on bridges or limited paths, the bearing could be irrelevant, it might be better to just describe the surroundings or general left-right side. Unless there are farther enemies outside of those path, then the bearing is needed.
• Sudden situations where you get supprised and cannot immediately comprehend enemy location & description, just say enemy or contact to indicate that you are engaged. Once you are on cover, out of immediate danger or even knocked out, inspect the location & describe it as soon as possible.

A teammate found an enemy

Given, you understood his callout:

1. If the bearing is relative to teammate, look immediately at that direction and also check your distance from him
2. Your distance from that teammate is an important key here: if he is nearby you should see the enemy at same bearing to what he called out, if farther out, you might need to offset more (if farther) or less (if nearer)
3. The distance from the enemy is also an important factor to when offseting the bearing, more (if nearer) or less (if farther)
4. If bearing is relative to a landmark reference, look for it on the map then identify the cardinal direction.
5. Tell your teammates if you have no visuals, so he could try to describe it more.
6. Also tell your teammates if you have no angle on the described location from you position (like a blind spot from your building). So they know if they should handle it themselves or let you know you need to move to a better spot.

Common Words

Here are some common words you could use to communicate

• enemy/contact - have a keyword that implies attention & importance like finding an enemy
• North/East/South/West - cardinal directions
• Running/moving left/right/away/closer - enemy is running left, right, away or closer to your relative position
• Wide left/right - farther left or right (ie. go wide left = move to leftward to flank enemy; enemy going wide right = enemy trying to flank your right)
• High ground - enemy is on a general higher ground than you are. If the location can't be immediately described as up slope, ridge, hill, cliff, etc then use this
• Low ground - enemy is on a general lower ground than you are. If the location can't be immediately described as down slope, ridge, hill, cliff, etc then use this
• No visual - cannot find the enemy
• No angle - no visual angle; your current position cannot see that area without significantly moving (ie. building with a blindspot)